Old Algonquin Books
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Bookscout's Corner

TIPS ON DETERMINING THE VALUE OF YOUR BOOKS

1. Desirability: Judging value of a book starts with the subject matter. If the book does not have anything of value to say, then no one will want it. For example many people still have in their attics old novels from the late 19th and early 20th century that may have been popular fiction at the time, but no one cares about anymore. Age alone does not make a book valuable.

2. Rarity. Books are subject to the same laws of supply and demand as any other goods. If there is only one copy of a book but no one is interested in purchasing it, then it will have no value. However if two or more people want that book, then the price will increase to whatever the market will bear.

3. Edition. Usually only the first or limited editions are collectible. However, a later edition that contains important new information may be preferred in some cases. You need to be able to properly determine which edition you have by learning to read the title and copyright pages. It is also important to have the dust jacket, with its original price intact, to properly identify the edition. Books listed below can help.

4. Condition. A most important determinant of value. Both book and dust jacket are considered and need to be in the best possible condition. This includes no ink or crayon marks, previous owner's names, bookplates, or embossers. A book worth $500 in fine condition may be worth next to nothing if it is frayed, soiled, or broken. Also the book must be complete in all its parts including dust jacket if there was one, pictures, endpapers and title page, etc.

5. Signatures. An inscription or signature by the author can increase the value of a book, especially in cases where the author is known to have signed very few books. Some author's signatures are plentiful or inconsquential and will do little to raise the price of a book.

6. Association copies. The term "association" is applied to any book which is verifiably associated with another famous person. For example, William Faulkner might have inscribed a book to F. Scott Fitgerald, or a book might contain the bookplate of a famous collector.

7. Binding. The original binding is preferable to any rebinding unless the original binding was so worn as to defy restoration. A rebound book may be valuable as a work of art, and on some early books the bindings were done after the book was sold in parts, so there may be different bindings of a first edition by different bookbinders.

Books shown on the right are examples of some good reference books for collectors and book dealers. We do not have these books for sale, but you can check on bookfinder or your other favorite search site.

The first book shown, A Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions", is available from McBride/Publisher, 141 South Street, West Hartford, CT 06110. Their website is www.mcbridepublisher.com. Be sure to get their most recent edition. They also have the booklet "Points of Issue", and other related booklets.

I don't have a photo of it right now but also see "A Collectors' Guide to First Editions" by Allan and Patricia Ahearn. It has a wealth of information for collectors as well as the approximate prices for thousands of collectible books. Their website is www.qbbooks.com.

A great magazine for collectors is Firsts Magazine which is published nine times a year. It has very informative articles on collectible books and authors, information on collecting, binding, condition standards, and links to many major book dealers. Click here for their website Firsts.

For books you can't find here, other sites include www.abaa.org, www.biblio.com, www.tomfolio.com, www.bookfinder.com, www.abebooks.com, and www.alibris.com. We don't recommend ebay unless you have researched the details of what you want before bidding. Many people sell on ebay (as well as other sites) that don't know how to properly identify edition, condition, etc.


Glossary & Abbreviations

As New:Book and dust jacket as nice as if directly from the publisher, crisp and clean. Fine: No flaws unless minor ones noted, but not quite as crisp as "as new". Very good or VG: Book or jacket may have some small flaws which are noted. Good: Book or jacket have more problems as described, but text and interior are acceptable. We generally don't have any books in lesser condition, except perhaps a "fair" dust jacket that is described.
hb, hard cover A hardback book
pb, sc, soft cover A paperback of one sort or another.
dj Dust jacket: the paper cover around hardback books.
Wraps or wrappers. The covers bound onto a paperback book. However, some dealers list the dust jacket of a hardback book as a dust wrapper.
ffep, fep Front free endpaper, free endpaper: the first page when the book is opened. Also sometimes referred to as the flyleaf.
ARC: An advance reading copy, softcover, which is sent out by publishers for comments before the book is published. ______________________________





A Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions, Sixth revised edition, by Bill McBride. Click on picture to see clearly.


ABC for Book Collectors, by John Carter. Essential reference for book collectors on terminology and analysis of the technical terms used in the trade.


Book Collector's Fact Book, by Margaret Haller. Definitions of terms and tips on collecting